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Vulcan's Thread.
October 1, 2014
4:43 pm
Vulcan
Guest

oh no! is this why my compression is at 120psi now haha those cursed plates!

going to have a talk to the car yard that sold me the car and try find out more details about it and ask why they kept ignoring me about that AA check sheet that i never got but paid for.

If you ever come across a good stock engine or a nicely built one for sale let me know. I was going to try get 550rwhp out of my current engine with bolt ons but now its abit stuffed that wont be happening. and if i end up getting it rebuilt ( by you ) not trusting anyone else with my car after all the troubles i have. I'd probably may as well buy forged internals for it so it can handle alot more power later on.

Made a second set of tail lights, done j spec replicas this time. turned out better than my clear ones. Might start making a few and sell them for some cash towards an engine rebuild, if you know anyone after some i can make them for $100.

October 16, 2014
8:36 am
2strTT
Guest
22

Dude, I saw the AA test for my tt AFTER I bought it too. They slammed it with a real whacky compression test among other things. But in all reality, the car was fine. It went like a scalded cat and never let me down ever. Admittedly I spent some smart money on the cam-belt and hoses, oils etc but that was as far as I delved on the mechanical side. If your ride isn't pissing water or oil, smoking and knocking, it's good to go. Strangely the AA test didn't mention the rear shocks were absolutely rooted in leakiest most pooed way possible and the fact there were illegal wheel spacers on the front which necessitated the procurement of a new set of wheels. So I do not hold AA test's with great value personally. My 2 cents.

October 17, 2014
2:49 pm
Vulcan
Guest
23

thats true, mine doesnt knock make funny noises doesnt use water oil etc, but it is lacking power going by driving my friends stock manual turbo. i struggle to lose traction in first with stock rims on 225 tyres. . . if i throw it into a corner and plant my foot it'l lose traction but otherwise it wont it just goes fast but doesnt have loss of traction power. . . and i would like 550rwhp and wasn't sure if i get injectors turbos and all the bolt ons on this motor it would make that or handle that with low compression.

But saying that. I've just brought Carls/Zfetsh engine which I think Glenn has done the work on? It's not complete yet and still needs stuff to finish the build but im going to finish that then swap engines over and then get my recon'd to stock so i have a stock spare engine.

Although im not 100% sure what is left to finish carls engine build. Glenn if you read this can you rebuild the set of heads and port/polish them etc or just a stock recon with new valves ( not those old earlier ones that are made from inferior metal and wear out) But you know what your doing so dont need advice from me haha but I'm keen to finish the build asap and im not sure if there is anywhere locally that can and will rebuild my heads and not sure how much that would cost. Otherwise i could probably just buy some off conceptz or something im not sure what to do yet lol. Just want 550rwhp at the least.

October 19, 2014
9:34 pm
mungyz
Guest
24

I can sort out some heads etc given a little time to get through the massive pile of work i have waiting for me.

I trust Carl gave you all the info on the condition of the bottom end etc & didn't leave out the important information on the blocks history etc?

October 20, 2014
4:22 pm
Vulcan
Guest

mungyz said

I can sort out some heads etc given a little time to get through the massive pile of work i have waiting for me.

I trust Carl gave you all the info on the condition of the bottom end etc & didn't leave out the important information on the blocks history etc?

Umm he said its a new prepped block with the coolant gallerys cleaned out with new wisco pistons eagle h beam rods all balanced and ready for the heads with high flow exhaust manifolds . . . Is there other info I should know? I have asked him a few times for some more info and pictures and the pdf file for the work you done to it but he's not sent anything through and i didn't want to keep hassling him. He said its a full hardened bottom end made for high hp. thats pretty much the info iv got. . .

From what iv gathered and asked it just needs heads ( he did say it comes with heads but maybe missing a few things ),turbos,injectors and other miscellaneous bolt ons to finish?

If you have more info it would be good to know. Because if there is alot more work needed than intended im not sure i want to go through with it. because i'll have to finish building it inside since my garage isnt waterproof and i dont want to engine to rust or anything and my house isnt very dry either so i assumed the bottom end was all done and ready and wouldn't take much to complete. The little bits and pieces like injectors etc i just can take from my current running engine and replace them with bigger ones after the new ones been run-in and going.

" These are his words" " Prepped block, balanced forged Wiseco pistons and Eagle H beam rods, high flow cast exhaust manifolds" + "Block has been cleaned up, all the galleries cleaned, was destined for Mad Mikes car as the start of a spare engine. All the bottom end is balanced, so its ready for the heads" + "New cam belt included I believe, new gaskets for everything, and rubber seals as well"

He also mentioned the bolts were all ARP bolts as well. Thats all the info i have on the engine without hassling him, I wrote to him a few times on facebook he has read them but doesn't reply. – I've put down a $1500 deposit last week until this friday when ill pay the rest.

October 26, 2014
1:05 pm
mungyz
Guest
26

Anything I say puts me at risk of another 300zx based shit fight & frankly I've had more than enough of the political BS that seems to come with these cars frown

The block was removed from Mikes car so we could fit a freshly bored block, the old block you have has a hand full of relatively minor scratches in some of the bores, normally noting to worry about but seeing as Mike & his car seem to cause nothing but trouble I took the ultra safe way out & replaced it.

The conrod bolts are not torqued up as far as I can remember, assume the mains to not be torqued as well.

I don't know what you have paid or what Carl has said & frankly don't want to know but what I don't want is that engine being sold on without all the facts being clear to who ever is buying it then someone having a go at me over what ever.
Just trying to cover my ass rather than leaving the door wide open for more of the BS people have thrown at me in the past truce

October 26, 2014
7:38 pm
Vulcan
Guest
27

Thanks, Paid $2500 for it but I never knew it was a 2nd hand block that hadn't been freshened up and the bores not honed or whatever its called :/. Would you still think it would be alright to use and get 500rwhp out of it? Also does it have eagle H beam rods or stock ones? the receipts doesn't say and the link to the rebuild kit he said it was never said anything about new rods.

The receipts he sent to me were the ones from you but again was just for the parts + stripping the block.

October 26, 2014
9:05 pm
mungyz
Guest
28

Cheap enough at that price.

The bores are not perfect but IMO will not seriously efect the engines abillity to do what it needs to do, you may see a small amount of oil use & a small amount of blowby but otherwise it will be fine.
I've seen VG30DETTs running very happily with bores in far worse condition – & that's why I was happy to let it go like that for Carl.

The problem is it comes down to opinion & I know for sure if you took it to a handful of shops there will be someone for sure who will say "you should never use it like that" but then I bet that same person would use it if the need arose.

October 26, 2014
9:30 pm
Vulcan
Guest
29

That's all good then, Thanks for the info and I thought the price was alright as well but just wanted to know everything about the engine so i knew what i was getting myself into haha since it'l be my first one i finish myself. . . With a few questions asked along the way im hoping it'l turn out as planned.

November 4, 2014
6:16 pm
Vulcan
Guest

Found a guy locally who had alot of 300zx parts he threw away last week =[ managed to get the stuff he still had left for kinda cheap which was good.

doors, targa tops, complete front subframe minus brakes, steering column & ignition with keys, hatch with a 3 piece stillen wing, head lights, abs pump few other misc pieces. and my favourite thing a complete turbo engine with turbos manifolds everything with it even has power steering pump alternator etc. was a club members old car many years ago has about 180,000kms on the engine was told it was running before the parted the car out although it has sat in a garage for many years untouched but i only brought it for parts to help complete carls engine i brought, Got the whole lot for $350 delivered.

Parts i already have plans for are, Headlights id like to have a play around and take the glass out and paint the inside either gloss black or maybe chrome just to see how they look without ruining the ones on my car. The engine i want to get the plenum all cleaned shaved and powder coated in black maybe polish it myself so its shiny. the cambelt covers ill give a clean there dirty but crack free, The heads i'll probably end up getting them recon'd to use on carls engine.

With the heads, what do you think i should do? i want them recon'd but what type of valves and springs should i get also what about porting and polishing them? Also are you able to get valves and springs? i would like some good ones although no idea what's good, i just know the 1990 intake valves were made from weak metal and i want new ones.

November 8, 2014
8:42 am
mungyz
Guest
31

For what you are trying to do stock valves and springs will be fine and avoid all the BS that comes from changing cams & springs etc.

I can source springs etc no problem at all & actually have two rebuildable VG30DETTs in stock with about four or five other motors in parts – it's no problem finding enough parts for most jobs :)

November 8, 2014
2:01 pm
Vulcan
Guest
32

sweet thats good, will let you know once im ready to buy some parts and will need to make a list of everything i need

November 23, 2014
4:31 pm
Vulcan
Guest
33

:( just before carl is about to send down the engine and bits. . . garage broken into his engine well my engine was stolen along with his other stuff that was in there =[=[

Now i need to find another engine haha. I want 500 at least at the wheels . . . i don't want to take my engine out to rebuild and work on because i still like driving my 300 now which is why i wanted a 2nd engine to build. but the parts one i got im not even going to bother try looking at rebuilding that one. if you ever have a good turbo engine that makes that power or will make that power with bolt ons do let me know please

November 26, 2014
9:00 pm
mungyz
Guest
34

That seems pretty odd, not sure there is much call for a half built VG30DETT on the black market shrug

I do have a VG30DETT suitable for a rebuild HOWEVER I wont be letting this go out the door for cheap so others can make money from it, it's going to stay in the shop for a shop project or job & can be sold to a customer but only as part of a rebuild etc.

Have to make money somehow :)

November 27, 2014
5:24 pm
Vulcan
Guest
35

yeah i thought it was abit weird as well, at least if it ever gets listed on trademe he will know its his. i'm not after making money off anything i just want lots of hp and a new engine for my almost mint body haha, but im thinking i might just keep saving next year (providing i dont spend it on cosmetic things i want) and hope my current engine lasts then i should have at least 10-15k cash to either buy parts for an engine or buy an already built one. I'll have about 4k spending money once carl refunds me when hes able too.

March 18, 2015
1:45 pm
Vulcan
Guest
36

well took my car to the dyno because i was always paranoid about my low compression but i got 300rwhp on 13psi injectors are at 86% max as well. Pretty happy with that but i do have a question if you know the answer.

My mods are. Single apexi intake, stock downpipes, 3" test pipes into a 2.5" rear half, and 13psi boost, slashman ecu

The tuner asked for my diff ratio, i said 3.7. he said he will check it on the dyno before hand anyway, and after checking with the dyno the dyno said it was 3.9 ratio. Would this effect any of my readings making them inaccurate? im assuming its just a minor difference since he did configure and set the dyno up.

also im not sure why my lbft of torque is 1200? surely its not that high . . . i forgot to ask the tuner about this before i left.

April 3, 2015
11:38 am
Vulcan
Guest
37

brought another 300zx in the weekend, was to cheap and local not to buy, has run a bearing though non turbo auto but real tidy, going to put the interior into mine the rear subframe maybe to get rid of hicas and plenty of spares if i ever need them. also gives me another afm to use for a selin dual intake and other bits and pieces.

Whipped up some j spec lights for it and made 2x glowing panels, 1 full time red j spec rep glows red at night. and a smoked one for my silver 300zx because i didnt like the red 300zx on clear tail lights.

<img src="http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l149/Nos_Monkeys/DSC03506_zps0fyomzxq.jpg" alt="" />
<img src="http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l149/Nos_Monkeys/DSC03511_zpsrgyuiq5e.jpg" alt="" />
<img src="http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l149/Nos_Monkeys/DSC03507_zps0uzyq4qa.jpg" alt="" />
<img src="http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l149/Nos_Monkeys/DSC03508_zpsmjvybahe.jpg" alt="" />

May 5, 2015
8:26 am
mungyz
Guest
38

Diff ratio is 3.69

VERY common for the rev counter to read inaccurately on the instrument cluster so if the dyno operator used that to work out the diff ratio he will have got it wrong.

If it was a rolling road dyno often the torque figure given is pretty much useless and has no actual relevance to the car & is only useful for comparing torque % changes when doing mods on the car.

If it was a hub dyno then the reading you get is at the hub (strangely enough laugh ) & it will be accurate, to convert to torque at the engine just divide it by the diff ratio (the diff multiplies torque).

My own car has produced over 2400nm of torque at the hubs easily – try doing that with a torque wrench laugh

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